The Atkins diet really brought beef to the foreground, even McDonald is serving beef only, no-bun burgers, anyway, in the wake of the re-branding of the Renaissance, L’Escale a previously quite successful, elegant continental restaurant got scratched, gutted, re-thought, re-invented, in its place the L.G. Smith Steak & Chop House is evolving, neatly wedging itself in the gap between El Gaucho and Pago Pago, with good meat-quality at a reasonable, affordable price. Angelica Vleeming having recuperated from the spectacular opening of Panorama is gearing up to the launch of the steakhouse with a familiar face at the helm, namely Sarah Matera, the former manager of the Conference Center . . .