Oranjestad -- The press was invited to taste first. Pre-opening at M, press members were spoiled with a sumptuous lunch hosted by the gracious Raoul & Landa Henriquez, the owners of the former Chez Mathilde, now split into two fresh concepts, one elegant, the other trendy. Chef Jim Roosman and his ever-helpful sous-chef Linda – these two have magical synergy - really outdid themselves preparing the feast. The Lobster Cappuccino was velvety, and cushioned what I thought was a shrimp pastechi, but Chef Jim reprimanded and corrected me. The heavenly half moon was a Prawn Wonton, floating on a little cloud of crème fraiche. As the main course I opted for a Rack or Deer paired with a Moose Filet. I could have had the Grouper Fillet & Rock Shrimp, but I wanted to stretch myself, to go beyond my immediate comfort zone and experiment. It paid off, what an amazing combo. The Rack of Deer was very flavorful and the Moose, ahhh, the Moose, I had no clue it was so tasty and tender when rubbed with fourteen different herb and spices and marinated for two weeks, I am kiddin’ but basically, I ate well, and the celery root puree was a first, I have never had it, yummy, and take my word for it, it sat well with the crumpled chanterelle mushrooms, and the ever-so-subtle truffled veal sauce! The dessert plate, practically a painting included a chocolate ganache pop sickle – that’s Linda’s handiwork - and an almond tulle leaf with palm sugar ice cream, cubed strawberry jelly and a blended shot of Mango & Papaya. I also eyed the other appetizer, a Veal Pastrami & Kobe Beef Roulade, on mixed greens, Belgian endives, with goat cheese, toasted pecan nuts and a raspberry vinaigrette and decided to save it for another occasion. The restaurant’s extreme make-over is for all intents and purposes complete. The Oranjestad address for ‘special occasions,’ which was gorgeous by itself, was gutted and reinvented. Local architect Cai Profet, worked closely with the creative owners to revolutionize and reposition their retau. As a result the French place is no longer French but it does borrow many European touches. The name changed.
The two sections boast Matilde, a five-star dining experience in the swanky back pavilion and M, an updated, upbeat bistro in the front portion of the 19th century architectural beauty. The décor mixes the old black and white floor tiles with a new lime mini-mosaic-river with sunken lights. There are digital masterpieces on the wall, changing every 30 seconds. The walk-in wine vault runs the length of the place. Triangular glass awnings hang overhead. Glass also frames the original 200-year old lime and coral stuffing of the antique walls. The bar is very cozy and hangs a bottled masterpiece by the multi-facetic Landa. P.S. She can also sing amazingly well. Definitely worth visiting at least twice, M first, Mathilde second . . .
